Shisapangma Expedition

Overview

With the altitude of 8012m; Shisapangma is the 14th highest mountain peak in the world. Literally Sishapangma means “The Mountain overlooking the grassy plains”.  This technically easy and straightforward climb is an excellent option for mountaineers who want to test themselves to extreme altitude without taking much of a risk. The Nepalese name for the peak is Gosaitan which means “Holy Place”. Shishapangma is the highest peak lying in the Langtang Himal and is located entirely within Tibet. The characteristic feature of this peak is long steep craggy southern face rising over 2000m offering an captivating view to all climbers.

It was first climbed by Chinese national H. Ching along with nine climbers in 1964. Located in the central Himalaya the peak has Mt Molamenchen to the east, Mt Xifeng and Mt Nandengri to west and Mt Kangbochen to northwest. Shishapangma was the last 8000m to be climbed due to the restriction on foreigners imposed by Tibetan and Chinese authorities. The peak has three distinct climbing routes on the southwest ridge with few other rational probabilities on the west ridge and East face. Due to its location in the dry north side of Himalayan crest and further lower terrain Nepal it has less dramatic vertical relief than most of the other Himalayan peaks.

Shishapangma can be summited from both North and South face. The most appreciated commercial route is from south which is also technically easy. The south face with its 2000m face with few challenging lines demands good level of climbing experience and is not definitely for beginners.

THE CLIMB:

FROM BASE CAMP TO Advance Base Camp (5600m)

The base camp will be set up in the place called Chinese Base camp. We will be staying in the base camp for few days until we will get acclimatized with the enduring environmental circumstances. All the goods and equipments that will be needed are transported by the help of Yak. Advance base camp is situated in the nose of the glacier on the west side of moraine and is relatively a plain place surrounded by prayer flags. We will rest here for few days and get prepared for the further climb.

ADVANCE BASE CAMP – CAMPI (6400M)

We will continue our walk from Advance Base Camp for several hours over the moraine. In the way we will set a transitional camp and change friendly boots for glacier. We will cross the glacier in the altitude of 5800. From here we will begin to climb through some crevassed slopes with the help of fixed ropes over them which bring us to Camp I. Camp I is a flat snow field cut by narrow but deep crevasses.

CAMPI- CAMP II (7050m)

Continuing through steep ascent followed by gentle climb we will cross flat glaciers with the help of fixed ropes we will arrive to camp II. The walk is of around 5-7hours. Acclimatize properly in camp II.

CAMPII-CAMPIII (7,400M)

From camp II it takes around 6hours to reach camp III through the steep ascent which takes us to ground below the northwest ridge.

SHISHAPANGMA SUMMIT

From camp III it takes around 9-12 hours to get into the summit. From camp III we will climb to a wing at 7,400m. From here we will continue through a steep but easy snow climb. We will cross difficult slopes with the help of fixed ropes. From summit one can enjoy the magnificent view of Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu along with many others. Retrace your path back.

Itinerary

Day 1: Kathmandu arrival and transfer to Hotel.

Day 2: Kathmandu sightseeing; this includes Pashupatinath, Boudhhanath, Swoyambhunath and Kathmandu Durbar Square. In the evening you will be attending the briefing about the trip.

Day 3: Fly to Lhasa

Today we will fly from Kathmandu to Lhasa of Tibet through the Himalayas. Stay overnight at hotel in Lhasa.

Day 4-5: Get acclimatizes with high altitude and discovers Lhasa

Today we will visit to major landmarks of Lhasa which includes Dalai Lama’s Potala Palace. Lhasa definitely offers glimpses of most antique cultural practices and heritages.

Day 6: Drive to Shigatse(3,900m); 6hours

Leaving Lhasa behind following Tsang Po we will drive to Shigatse which is the second largest city of Tibet. Stay overnight at hotel in Shigatse..

Day 7: Drive to Xegar(4,000m); 8hours

Continuing the drive through the Tibetan highway and viewing the spectacular mountain panorama we will arrive Xegar. Stay overnight in hotel.

Day 8: Get Acclimatize and explore the town

We will acclimatize with high altitude before continuing our trip towards Chinese Base Camp. In the afternoon we will visit the main market place and make hike to hilltop monastery. Stay overnight in hotel.

Day 9: Drive to Shishapangma Base Camp

After having breakfast catch a drive crossing Thang La (5200m) and turn off the Lhasa highway. After 25km drive on the road to Mt Kailash turns to south which ultimately takes us to Shishapangma Base Camp (5000m). The base is situated beside Yambughangala River.

Day 10-11: Prepare for the climb and get acclimatize

Prepare and load the equipments in the Yaks which will be needed in the climb. It is too important to get acclimatize in Base Camp before moving to Advance Base Camp.

Day 12: Climb towards Advance Base Camp

Following the jeep track to a plateau we will trek to Advance base camp which is situated just near the nose of Yambughagala Glacier (5600m). From base camp the distance to Advance Base Camp is about 20km.

Day 13-38: Climbing period from Advance base Camp to Shishapangma Peak.

Day 39: climb down to Base Camp. All the equipments and loads will be carried by Yaks.

Day 40: waving bye-bye to Tibet and crossing Friendship Bridge we will drive to Nepal. Stay overnight at Nepal- Tibet border at Tatopani.

Day 41: Drive to Kathmandu and get some rest.

Day 42:Free day in Kathmandu. Get relaxed and pamper yourself by visiting some spa or do some family shopping in the afternoon. In the evening we will organize a farewell celebration with some cultural program.

Day 52: Transfer to airport for your onward journey.